Me too! The last time I wore corduroy was in primary school. Now in my adulthood I still don’t own any corduroy in my closet. Who still wears corduroy anyway…
Corduroy is sometimes viewed as an “outdated” fabric. This perception may deter some people from incorporating it into their modern wardrobes. There’s a huge BUT here. You will see corduroy more often in 2025 since Burberry Resort, Gucci, and Martine Rose incorporated corduroy in their Spring/Summer 2025 collections, particularly for items like pants, jackets, and accessories.
The growing popularity of athleisure and more casual, stretchy fabrics has impacted the demand for traditional textiles like corduroy. It’s worth noting that this future trend could also appeal to environmentally conscious fashion girlies.
Now let’s travel through the history of corduroy.
Corduroy, a fabric that has woven its way through history, continues to have an impact on fashion and culture. This distinctive textile, known for its raised parallel cords, has a rich past that spans from royal courts to factory floors. Its durability and unique texture have made it a staple in wardrobes across generations, adapting to changing times while maintaining its characteristic charm.
The journey of corduroy takes us from its origins in ancient Egypt to its popularity in the 1970s and beyond. We'll explore its evolution from a symbol of nobility to a working-class favorite, and its resurgence in high fashion. Along the way, we'll uncover the meaning behind its name, its role in the Industrial Revolution, and how icons like Jane Birkin and Wes Anderson have shaped its modern image. This exploration reveals how corduroy has remained relevant and stylish through the ages.
The Royal Origins of Corduroy
Ancient Egyptian roots
The story of corduroy begins in ancient Egypt, around 200 BC. In the city of Al-Fustat, which was a hub for woven textiles, skilled weavers developed a unique fabric. This early predecessor to corduroy was called fustian, a thick cloth with a raised, sheared nap similar to velvet or moleskin. The name "fustian" itself comes from the city of Al-Fustat, highlighting its Egyptian origins.
Fustian fabric in medieval Europe
Fustian made its way to Europe during the late Middle Ages, thanks to Italian and Spanish merchants. This durable cloth quickly gained popularity among the aristocracy and merchant classes, who valued it for its warmth and texture. They often used fustian as padding underneath more decorative fabrics, creating a look that became a symbol of status.
Henry VIII, known for his extravagant style, owned many fustian garments. The padded silhouette created by fustian may have inspired Shakespeare to use the word as a synonym for pompousness in his works. At this point, fustian had not yet developed the distinctive ridges that would later characterize corduroy.
The 'cord du roi' myth
A popular but false etymology suggests that the word "corduroy" comes from the French phrase "corde du roi," meaning "cord of the king." This story claims that in the 17th century, French royal servants wore a fine, durable woven velvet fustian-style fabric made from silk. However, this royal connection has been debunked as clever marketing.
The true origin of the word "corduroy" is less glamorous but equally interesting. It first appeared in English around 1774, derived from "cord" (meaning rope) and "duroy," a coarse woolen cloth made in England in the 18th century. The transition from fustian to corduroy happened gradually, with the distinctive ridged texture developing over time.
Industrial Revolution: Corduroy for the Working Class
The Industrial Revolution brought about significant changes in textile manufacturing, including the production of corduroy. This period saw the fabric transition from a symbol of nobility to a staple of the working class.
Development of Wales
During the late 1700s and early 1800s, British textile equipment underwent a revolution. New high-tech machinery produced a 100% cotton, ribbed dobby with high-density weft. Cutting machines were developed to slice the dobby's piles, which, after brushing, created velvety ridges. These ridges, known as wales, became the defining feature of corduroy.
The width of the cord, referred to as the size of the "wale," is measured by the number of ridges per inch. A lower wale number indicates a thicker width. For example, 4-wale is much thicker than 11-wale. Corduroy's wale count can vary from 1.5 to 21, with the traditional standard falling between 10 and 12.
Popularity among laborers
Corduroy's durability made it ideal for factory wear. Its tufted wales protected the woven backing from abrasion and cuts, making it perfect for workmen's pants before denim became popular. This hard-wearing nature led to corduroy being known as "Manchester" in some parts of Europe, a nod to its industrial origins.
The fabric's practicality extended beyond factories. During World War I, corduroy briefly became the default fabric for infantry uniforms and school uniforms. Its warmth and flexibility made it suitable for various garments, from trousers to jackets.
Symbol of the Chartist movement
Corduroy's association with the working class went beyond practicality. During the 19th century, radical elements of the British working class chose to wear fustian jackets, a precursor to corduroy, as a symbol of their class allegiance. This was particularly evident during the Chartist era, a working-class movement for political reform in Britain. Historian Paul Pickering described the wearing of fustian as "a statement of class without words," highlighting how clothing became a powerful tool for expressing social and political identity during this period.
The 1970s Revival: Corduroy in Fashion
Adoption by designers
The 1970s saw corduroy make a significant comeback in the fashion world. Designers embraced this versatile fabric, transforming it from a working-class staple to a symbol of counterculture and style. The rich texture and durability of corduroy made it an ideal choice for the era's bold fashion statements. Brands like Gucci, Marc Jacobs, and Prada began to include corduroy in their fashion lines, elevating its status from practical to chic.
Celebrity influence
Celebrities played a crucial role in popularizing corduroy during this period. Icons like The Beatles, Picasso, Robert Redford, and Steve McQueen were often seen sporting corduroy, giving it a cool, anti-establishment vibe. Edward Heath, then president of the Board of Trade, even called The Beatles the "saviors of the corduroy industry." This celebrity endorsement helped to cement corduroy's place in popular culture.
Iconic corduroy looks
The 1970s saw corduroy used in various iconic looks. Bell-bottom corduroy pants became a fashion staple, with people like Jane Birkin pairing them with simple white tees for an effortlessly chic look. Corduroy jackets, particularly in earthy tones, were also popular. The Brady Bunch, a TV show that epitomized 1970s style, often featured characters in mustard-hued corduroy flares and burnt sienna blazers. These looks have continued to inspire fashion revivals, with modern celebrities like Harry Styles leading the trend in recent years.
Modern Corduroy: From Workwear to High Fashion
Corduroy has made a remarkable journey from its humble beginnings as workwear to becoming a staple in high fashion. Today, this versatile fabric has shed its retro image and emerged as a symbol of timeless elegance and modern style. Contemporary designers are embracing corduroy, reimagining it in ways that appeal to fashion-forward individuals and sustainability-conscious consumers alike.
As sustainability becomes increasingly important in the fashion industry, many brands are offering eco-friendly corduroy options. Some companies use organic cotton, which requires less water and fewer pesticides, reducing environmental impact. Others incorporate recycled fibers, giving new life to old materials and minimizing waste. Brands like Reformation and Everlane are leading the way with their sustainable corduroy pieces, offering stylish options that are better for the planet.
Styling tips for corduroy pieces
Corduroy's versatility allows for various styling options. For a casual look, pair corduroy pants with a simple t-shirt or cozy sweater. To dress up corduroy, opt for a slim-fit blazer in a darker shade like navy or black, paired with a crisp white shirt. Accessories can elevate the look further – try adding a statement belt or sleek shoes to complement the texture of the fabric.
Corduroy has woven its way through history, adapting to changing times while maintaining its unique charm. From its ancient Egyptian roots to its modern-day revival, this fabric has shown remarkable versatility. Its journey from royal courts to factory floors, and now to high-fashion runways, showcases its enduring appeal and ability to evolve with societal changes.
Today, corduroy stands as a testament to the blend of tradition and innovation in fashion. Its resurgence in contemporary design, coupled with sustainable production methods, ensures its continued relevance. As we look to the future, corduroy's rich history and adaptability suggest it will remain a beloved fabric, cherished for its texture, durability, and timeless style.
